Constructing the Foundation

Now we will go back to our footer. We filled it with 5 1/2 sacks of footer mix concrete. Again we need to lay out our 26' x 42' squared foundation line. This time we drive hardened horseshoe cut nails at the corners and use a chalk line to mark the outside of the block.
Now we can lay block to the chalk line. The mortar mix is about 12 to 14 shovels full of sand to half a bag of M type mortar. Never, never, never use already mixed mortar, quick set, or similar products. Lay one or two courses (layers) of cement block and let them set up for 24 hours.
Next we will dig a half moon ditch about 4 inches deep along side the outer edge of the concrete footer, in which we will place lite weight 4" drain pipe with the holes (2 rows) about 30 degrees off down center. Cover the pipes with 8" to 1 foot of gravel. This will bring the gravel to 4" below the top of our second course of block. Now we can lay 10 more course of cement blocks to the top of the wall.
Please lay only 4 or 5 course (rows) at a time (per day) so the weight does not push the horizontal mortar from between the bottom new rows of block.
Once we have 12 course of block laid up leaving about 3 or 4 openings, 2 block long, 32" x 3 rows high 24" will give you place to put basement windows 32" x 24" regular aluminum and glass or glass block including vents and a dryer vent if desired.
After the block foundation is completely dried you can place 8', 2 x 10's vertically even hanging them from the top of the block wall by means of a 2 x 4 block nailed to one end. 4 planks down each side wall and at least 2 on each end evenly spaced.
Next place 2 x 10 bracing from midway down the wall height using another 2" x 4" block ledger board. Cutting the length from the center of the vertical plank to the center of the basement on the long walls, also bring the brace from opposite wall to meet the first one, end to end. They are pushing on one another and bracing one another. The bracing planks on the end can go to a 2 x 4 stake in the dirt basement floor.
It this bracing system is not employed until the house is on top of the foundation and the drywall is hung, the additional weight will make it even more effective.
Back filling around the house after it is drywalled and braced will give much more safety to the block walls in case of rain. During the settling of the back fill.
Okay, that covers the back filling and the danger of foundation bracing to prevent foundation collapse. However before we begin the back filling of dirt around the foundation we need to place a layer of loose straw 1 to 2 feet thick on top of that gravel we put in the bottom of the ditch. It will filter the water to the gravel and pipe and also prevent the dirt from getting into the gravel in the form of mud. Thus keeping our filter and drainage system working.
While the deep hole is all around the house you need the planking to walk to the house we are about to construct.
I will write again soon,
Phil