Starting the House Framework

First we need to install the hold downs (foundation bolts) in the top course of the cement blocks. They are 12" x 1/2" bolts, threaded on one end with an L shaped hook on the other end. These bolts are cemented into the top course of block, not more than 6 feet apart, extended at least 2 1/2" above the block. Now we drill our 2 x 8 treated plates to be drawn down with a washer and a nut.
We also need to place a termite shield of aluminum or tar soaked cellulose sheeting directly on the concrete block before the plate goes down. My personal favorite for a termite shield is 1/2" thick concrete expansion joint in the size of the block width.
Next we can place our 2 x 8 treated plates on top of the entire foundation and bolt them down. Since our house is 26' wide we will need either a steel beam down the center of the basement or we will need to construct a beam of at least 3, 2 x 10's thick, glued and nailed together. you can also use today's popular laminated beams, 3 thick x 11 1/4". We need to place an FHA one piece foundation jack post not more than 12' apart under that beam and the end walls of the foundation need to be notched to allow said beam to rest to the outside surface of the block on the end walls.
With our outside walls plated and a beam down the middle of the house we can start our 2 x 10 floor joust on one end of the basement and continue down the wall 16" on center with the floor joist.
Now I feel we must take a pause here to explain what 16" on center means. The plate which lays on the end wall of the foundation is going to have the first joist standing on it with this joist standing flush with the outside of the block. The second joist on that side of the house will actually measure 15 1/4" to it's edge so that the center of the second joist is at 16", thus the center of the third joist is 32" and the fourth joist is 48" etc. Then the seventh joist center will be at 8' or 96" at the end of the first sheet of plywood.
When we get to the location of our stairway from 24' on out to 36' on center. We will leave the space between these joist open and cut 3, 12' joist to run the length of the house and between them. The first of these 3 joist goes on the edge of the center beam. The second of these joist goes 37 1/2" away toward the outside wall. This joist is from 37 1/2"to 39" fastened at the ends into the 19th and 28th joist. This is half of a carrier joist then the carrier will be doubled up on the inside for strength.
Now joist 19 and 28 will also be doubled up giving us a 36" x 11' 10 1/2" opening in the floor in which to install the stairway. We have our stairway side of the house floor joist, then we install the floor joist on the other side of the house, which lay along side the first set on the center beam, meaning they are 1 1/2" offset from the first joist. When our complete set of joist are installed, including the rim board, we will cover the deck with 3/4 tongue and groove OSB or plywood.
Till next time and the outside walls.
Phil

Constructing the Foundation

Now we will go back to our footer. We filled it with 5 1/2 sacks of footer mix concrete. Again we need to lay out our 26' x 42' squared foundation line. This time we drive hardened horseshoe cut nails at the corners and use a chalk line to mark the outside of the block.
Now we can lay block to the chalk line. The mortar mix is about 12 to 14 shovels full of sand to half a bag of M type mortar. Never, never, never use already mixed mortar, quick set, or similar products. Lay one or two courses (layers) of cement block and let them set up for 24 hours.
Next we will dig a half moon ditch about 4 inches deep along side the outer edge of the concrete footer, in which we will place lite weight 4" drain pipe with the holes (2 rows) about 30 degrees off down center. Cover the pipes with 8" to 1 foot of gravel. This will bring the gravel to 4" below the top of our second course of block. Now we can lay 10 more course of cement blocks to the top of the wall.
Please lay only 4 or 5 course (rows) at a time (per day) so the weight does not push the horizontal mortar from between the bottom new rows of block.
Once we have 12 course of block laid up leaving about 3 or 4 openings, 2 block long, 32" x 3 rows high 24" will give you place to put basement windows 32" x 24" regular aluminum and glass or glass block including vents and a dryer vent if desired.
After the block foundation is completely dried you can place 8', 2 x 10's vertically even hanging them from the top of the block wall by means of a 2 x 4 block nailed to one end. 4 planks down each side wall and at least 2 on each end evenly spaced.
Next place 2 x 10 bracing from midway down the wall height using another 2" x 4" block ledger board. Cutting the length from the center of the vertical plank to the center of the basement on the long walls, also bring the brace from opposite wall to meet the first one, end to end. They are pushing on one another and bracing one another. The bracing planks on the end can go to a 2 x 4 stake in the dirt basement floor.
It this bracing system is not employed until the house is on top of the foundation and the drywall is hung, the additional weight will make it even more effective.
Back filling around the house after it is drywalled and braced will give much more safety to the block walls in case of rain. During the settling of the back fill.
Okay, that covers the back filling and the danger of foundation bracing to prevent foundation collapse. However before we begin the back filling of dirt around the foundation we need to place a layer of loose straw 1 to 2 feet thick on top of that gravel we put in the bottom of the ditch. It will filter the water to the gravel and pipe and also prevent the dirt from getting into the gravel in the form of mud. Thus keeping our filter and drainage system working.
While the deep hole is all around the house you need the planking to walk to the house we are about to construct.
I will write again soon,
Phil

Basement Excavation

Now we can excavate the basement area layout with the backhoe to approximately 6' to 6' 8" deep, allowing 2 to 3 block to show above level grade, on a 12 course basement. When excavating said area I dig about 1' outside of the lime line depending on soil conditions to allow room for the footer and a footer drainpipe outside the footing. After excavating to 6' deep or so we must re-establish our outside line once again to dig our footer ditch in the bottom of the hole. The excavator will probably dig or bulldoze a ramp to get his backhoe in and out of the basement. After relaying the lime line in the bottom of the hole the excavator should establish a 16" wide ditch with 1 tooth of his 16" bucket (4 inches) outside of the lime line. This will allow room to lay 8" wide concrete block for the foundation.
In a perfect world we would end up with a footer ditch 26' 8" x 42' 8" outside to outside then providing all sides are straight and the ditch is exactly 8" deep. We have a wonderful footer ditch which will be filled with a grade of at least 5 1/2 to 6 sacks (per yard) gravel footer mix concrete. Once it is poured and allowed to dry for a day or so. I myself like 48 hours at least, before we commence laying the block or bring in the foundation pouring forms for a solid concrete foundation. This requires forms, usually of steel or plywood, someplaces today you can get styrofoam forms which will insulate your foundation when it is poured. I also suggest a limestone mix of concrete for a poured foundation.
Once we have the foundation layed up (block) or poured (concrete) we will be 24 or less inches above the level grade. We now bring in some of the excavated dirt to get a tapered yard, slopping 1 foot in 8 to 10 feet away from the house giving us a water shedding effect around the house. Do not backfill against the basement walls until after you read the next paragraph.
Until next time Phil

Phils' sample house layout

Our Sample House is Also a Simple House. We have now done the Math to give us our excavation dimensions ; First we will now go to lot area where have removed the top soil, and using our 5 foot larger scraping dimensions, lets measure in 5 feet from 2 sides toward one corner, drive an 18 inch stake about 6" to 8" deep at this point. From there we will continue down the long side of the scrape for a distance of 42 feet, place another stake at this point. Across the clearing, 26 feet from these 2 stakes we will place 2 more stakes. Now comes the math answer, we start checking our 26 X 42 foot dimension, maintaining those while we get the diagional dimension to 49' 4 1/4" on both of the diagionals. After moving the stakes a few times. Hint; move the stakes inward or outward , toward square, 1/2 the distance of the difference in dimension, until exact equality of the diagional distance is reached. Next, those stakes are only 18 inches long for a reason; we now stretch a string from stake to stake, around the circumference of the house, (all 4 steaks). Then shake flour or powdered lime on the string to mark the outside of the foundation. Now to excavate the basement area we (or your excavater) will know a standard basement is 8 feet from footer to top of the block or poured wall.

Philhogueshouseblog

Of Course this Blog Is FREE but, I Would Like to Know YOU are out there. So if you would e- mail me at my reserved address"seahorse49 @sbcglobal.net", Just say "blog reader" in the subject, if you please....I will not allow your e-mail to be sold or used other than for me to contact you with free gifts or free opportunities to you. ALL IS FREE!! I'm NOT SELLING ANYTHING.... Now What Legal Stuff I feel I need Is Out of the Way!!! SO LETs GET STARTED ON THE REAL PURPOSE HERE____Building That House !! Number 1 I will Assume YOU Have a LOT, either in the Town, City , or County of Your Choosing. I Will Further Assume that You OWN Said Real Estate,--Don't Laugh, I One Time Shared $25,000 with my Attorney Because Someone, against my warnings, Planted Their Septic system, And Their Moduler Home 80' {eighty feet} onto my Property. Always,Always, Always BE SURE OF THE PROPERTY LINE. Number 2; Towns, Cities, Countys, and States have RULES & LAWS About Distances to stay away from streets, alleys, sidewalks, property lines, even gas and oil wells, electrical towers, on and on......They Also Require Building Permits, Inspections, And Sometimes Just Getting By The "Good OLE' Boy " network is going to take some FINE$$ !! Next We are Going to Need Some type of Idea of what our finished House is going to Look like. Sort of a Road Map to get Us From here to there, a Blue Print. We will start next time with working up our Lot ,while You Procure Your Blue Print, The sample House BluePrint is in my Head. BOY O' BOY we're in Trouble Now!!!

Philhogueshouseblog

I go can back to anywhere I have worked, or to anyone I have worked for, and be welcomed into there house, or home as the case may be, and provided the property has the same owner. These are the Best credenaials I can Possibly provide to every one. {If Required I shall take any doubter with me and prove what I say.} I Can also, {as is my Intent With this Writing} Show any reasonably intelligent person, Instructions to build A simple and Nice House for themselves and their Family. One's Credit Stats' or ability to afford said House are not Going to be Concerns of this Blog. This writing is to give Free instruction on HOW IT'S DONE....Not how to pay for it !! I will describe how to build a simple Ranch House as a future home; {once love moves in}!! This Information Is being GIVEN AWAY FREE!! So I refuse to subject Myself to Legal Proceedings, Lawsuits, or any Liability as resulting from A person following My Instructions. My Instructions are True and Correct; Yet There is a Possibility of Error by one following Those Instructions. THEREFORE IF YOU CONTINUE FROM THIS POINT FORWARD, READING, FOLLOWING, OR INSTRUCTING OTHERS TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONAL PAGES, YOU AGREE TO HOLD-PHILLIP HOGUE-THIS BLOG-ALL FAMILY of PHILLIP HOGUE, ALL HEIRS and ASSIGNS--HARMLESS OF ANY LIABILITY RESULTING IN, TO, OF or FROM YOUR ACTIONS and PROJECT [] I AGREE.